1) Ensure the toolhead fits:
The shaft on the shinglehead is thicker than that of the factory chisel. This was necessary because the lighter shaft wasn't rugged enough for ripping roofs and would often fail to be retained in the power handle when buried.
Therefore it is often necessary to clean up the shaft hole to make sure the shaft flows properly.
The other consequence of the thicker shaft is that sometimes the ball bearings won't retract enough to insert/release the head, which is addressed by removing a few thousandths from the retaining ring.
2) clean up protrusions:
The most important modification is to bevel the hammer housing. The ledge created by the factory's square cut often catches the separated layer and halts the flow of the tool. Cutting a bevel creates a ramp for the shingles to ride over.
This air hammer has a protruding clamp, which makes another ledge to snag on. Webs welded in front of the clamp guide the roof debris clear for yet smoother operation.
A torque lug is installed to aid in assembly. The flats provided by the factory are lost in the bevel cut, and weren't too impressive to start with.
Then, The paint is patched.
You don't need to pay me to sand it all down when paint is destroyed as soon as it sees asphalt shingles.
Finally, The ripper is assembled and bench tested
before getting packed, so we know it's ready to go right out of the box.
Razor Bar and Air Razor are covered under US Patent No. 7,360,473 roof-shingle-removal-tool.com, and all it’s contents are copyrighted 2006-2009 to the holder of that patent, all rights reserved